I have a 49-year-old friend who is still recovering from a serious operation on his arm. His doctor has told him not to engage in any strenuous activities for a while, and to limit his exercise to walking.
However, after learning that Hurricane Irene was going to make its way up most of the East Coast, my friend drove down from his home in New Hampshire to Rhode Island this past weekend so he could surf at Narragansett Beach. (The storm surge did not have had the same power north of Cape Cod.)
"I know I wasn't supposed to, and my hands were shaking by the end of the day. But you don't get to surf ten foot waves very often," he explained.